JEWELLERY &
GARMENT

An Exhibition of
Contemporary Jewellery
and Fashion

OPENING: July 7th 2022, 6pm

"Jewellery & Garment" is an interplay between the two sister disciplines of jewelry and fashion. Positions of contemporary author's jewelry are shown together with vintage avant-garde fashion from private collections. Since the 1960s, an international scene of jewelry makers has emerged who place the artistic idea at the center of their work. In addition to early approaches that radically break with a traditional conception of jewelry, the exhibition also shows works by a following generation of artists who not only fight against conventions, but also devote themselves to current socially relevant themes in this increasingly complex present. These are innovative and experimental works with an individual handwriting, carried by the zeitgeist of their creation, but independent of seasonal fashions. Jewelry and fashion are presented in the exhibition as an equal, corresponding unit. Curated by Svenja John & Petra Zimmermann

JEWELLERY
David Bielander: Banana pendant, 2010, Silver, leather | Banana Anhänger, 2010, Silber, Leder 6 7/10 × 1 1/5 × 1 1/5 in, 17 × 3 × 3 cm Edition / 12 Yutaka Minegishi: „Spiral“ ring, 2010, Ebony, „Lippen“ ring, 2010, Ebony, Pink Ivory (Berchemia zeyheri) untitled 2016 | „Spiral“ Ring, Ebenholz 2010, „Lippen“ Ring Ebenholz, 2010, Pink Ivory (Holz, Berchemia zeyheri) Ring ohne Titel 2016
GARMENT
20471120: Jacket, sheep leather A/W 1998 | Schafsfelljacke Herbst/Winter 1998 Ann Demeulemeester: Dress, early 2000´s | Kleid aus den frühen 200ern Photo: René Arnold, digital imaging: Wolfram Otto, model: Susanne Schmidt

JEWELLERY&GARMENT is an exhibition project within the frame program of the Frankfurt Fashion Week that links contemporary author jewellery to the avant-garde fashion of the 90s. In the 1960s, a small, international scene of jewellery makers emerged. Its members place artistic concepts at the center of their work, thereby freeing themselves from traditional conceptions of jewellery. In recent decades ‘author jewellery’ has established itself internationally as an artistic medium and entered the collections of numerous art and design museums. Shaped by the zeitgeist at their time of genesis but independent from seasonal trends, the works are simultaneously experimental, innovative, and original. They are objects of lasting value.

The selection ranges from the pioneering generation's radical positions of Dorothea Prühl,
Daniel Krüger, and Peter Scubic to those of a younger generation of artists represented by David Bielander, Helen Britton, Karl Fritsch, Svenja John, Yutaka Minegishi, Lisa Walker, and Petra Zimmermann. Above fighting conventions, younger artists address the socially relevant current issues of our increasingly challenging times.

Whereas contemporary jewellery artists remain generally known only to connoisseurs, the exhibited viewpoints from the fashion world bear the field's most illustrious names including Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, and Ann Demeulemeester.

Each garment assigned to a piece of jewellery is an iconic piece of fashion, gathered from an international second-hand source or loaned from a private collection. Above the second-hand character of a piece of clothing, something else defines its sustainability: concept and form shape a discourse that never ceases to negotiate the interrelations of body, space, and society. Such fashion leaves a decisive impact on new generations of designers.

Discourse and impact demonstrate the selected garment's intrinsic value, untouched by novelty or seasonal trends.

On multiple levels, the shown jewellery lives up to the central theme of Frankfurt Fashion Week: Sustainability. On display are unique pieces as well as small editions, predominantly artist-made works from within their studios. This kind of manufacture does not encounter the same problems industrial production may face. Labor in the studio can not be reduced to a 'renaissance of craftsmanship' in the goldsmith's workshop but can be compared to work in an open laboratory or artist’s studio. In it, artists pursue the visualization of artistic ideas in the most diverse ways. High-tech materials and new technologies have their place here equal to found objects, historic set-pieces and re- and upcycling strategies.

This exhibition's jewellery and fashion take a broader view of sustainability that is not primarily concerned with the output and consumption of products. This perspective points to a kind of esthetic sustainability that emerges through the intangible value of art and reveals itself equally to the artist and viewer.

On par and in agreement, the pieces of jewellery in this exhibition form a unit with the garments. They are poised to meet their prospective wearer who will make them their own and let them shine in a new context.